The modern lifestyle of our pets is believed to be increasing their risk of developing diabetes mellitus. As vets, we are certainly seeing an increase in the number of over weight animals, and being obese is a well known risk factor for diabetes. Our pets are eating more carbohydrate in their diet than they did in the past. This, in combination with a more sedentary life-style, means that they are prone to weight gain and all the complications associated with it.
What is diabetes mellitus?
Diabetes is an endocrine disease commonly associated with overweight pets. The pancreas is the organ of the body which is affected. If your pet's pancreas does not secrete enough insulin or the body is resistant to the insulin which is produced, then your pet will show signs of diabetes.
What are the signs of diabetes?
Increased thirst; a cat or dog who is drinking excessively is always a cause for concern.
Increased urination; this may first be seen as a failure of house-training, since pets can no longer "hold on" for very long.
Weight loss, increased or decreased appetite.
Sweet chemical smell on the breath.
Other signs include collapse and weakness and will require urgent attention from your vet.
How do vets make the diagnosis?
Diabetes can be diagnosed by taking urine and blood samples to detect elevated levels of glucose. More than one sample is often necessary, since glucose levels can fluctuate with time of day, stress, feeding and exercise.
Diabetes mellitus is diagnosed if the concentration of glucose in the blood is consistently elevated.
What treatment can be given?
Diabetes can be successfully managed with insulin therapy and attention to diet and exercise. In cats, around 25% of cases are transient and resolve within 3 months. However, in these cases it is still necessary to pay attention to diet and exercise for the rest of the cat's life.
In all cases of diabetes, the aim of treatment is to manage the condition so that pets can benefit from a good quality of life. Daily or twice daily insulin injections are usually necessary, and owners can find the thought of this quite daunting. However, giving injections is not as difficult as you may think and your vet or vet nurse can teach you how to do this and provide all the advice and support you may need.
Complications of diabetes mellitus
If diabetes is not treated, or is not well controlled then complications such as cataracts may develop. Hind limb weakness is sometimes also seen in cats with this condition. The most serious complication of uncontrolled diabetes is ketoacidosis which requires urgent veterinary attention.
Thursday, 10 December 2009
Monday, 7 December 2009
Bathing Your Pet
Should You Bathe Your Pet?
So often, people say to me that they have been told dogs do not need to be bathed. To a certain extent this is true, however, if your dog suffers from skin problems then bathing can be extremely beneficial.
Most healthy dogs do not need frequent baths. It is sufficient to rinse them when they get muddy and give them occasional baths when they roll in something unpleasant. However, with the gentle shampoos available for our pets today there is no reason not to bathe your dog every week if you would like to do so.
We are often told that if we bathe our pets frequently it will remove the natural oils from their coats, making them dry and dull. This may have been true in the past with the harsher shampoos which were available, and is still true today if we try to wash our pets with human shampoos which are formulated for our skin which has a different pH to that of animals. However, with modern pet shampoos many dogs do very well with regular washing, and it is a very positive benefit for animals with allergic skin disease.
One of the simplest ways we can help animals with skin problems is to keep the skin clean. We know how good it feels to be fresh and clean after a shower or bath; we also know that if we have an area of skin which is damaged the first thing we do is clean it and then keep it that way. Why not the same for our pets? Bathing our pets, especially those with skin problems, can help to reduce the bacterial and yeast population on the skin, remove allergens from the skin surface, help remove skin scales and dead hair and remove parasites such as fleas. Pets with skin problems may need to be bathed several times per week.
Bathing Tips
When bathing your pet you should choose a shampoo which is gentle on the skin and formulated specifically for pets. Many different shampoos are on the market. You may wish to use a herbal shampoo or one of the medicated shampoos may be better for your pet's particular problem. If your pet has a skin problem then ask your vet what type of shampoo they would recommend for that particular condition.
When washing your pet use luke warm water, it should not be hot. It is fine to use a hose on a gentle setting for dogs in hot weather, but only if they enjoy this. It can certainly help to cool them down and make them feel more comfortable. Whatever you do, you should try to keep bath time as fun and stress free as possible - both for you and your pet!
Remember not to let shampoo get into eyes or ears, you can use a damp cloth to wipe around these delicate areas if necessary. Stay away from really sore areas with the water but if medicated shampoo is required here blot gently with a moistened cloth or cotton wool. Remember to wash (and dry) feet and toes.
Wherever possible, medicated shampoo should be allowed to remain in contact with the skin for 10 minutes before rinsing in order to have the best effects. Rinsing should be thorough since residues of shampoo can be irritating to the skin later.
Your pet should be gently towel dried (if you do not wish your dog to shake the water from the coat before you have a chance to dry them, gently steady their nose until you have the majority of the water off - the shaking starts with the head and if the dog cannot get started it will not happen!) You can finish drying with a hairdryer on a "cool" setting, however stay away from hot-spots and other sore areas.
So often, people say to me that they have been told dogs do not need to be bathed. To a certain extent this is true, however, if your dog suffers from skin problems then bathing can be extremely beneficial.
Most healthy dogs do not need frequent baths. It is sufficient to rinse them when they get muddy and give them occasional baths when they roll in something unpleasant. However, with the gentle shampoos available for our pets today there is no reason not to bathe your dog every week if you would like to do so.
We are often told that if we bathe our pets frequently it will remove the natural oils from their coats, making them dry and dull. This may have been true in the past with the harsher shampoos which were available, and is still true today if we try to wash our pets with human shampoos which are formulated for our skin which has a different pH to that of animals. However, with modern pet shampoos many dogs do very well with regular washing, and it is a very positive benefit for animals with allergic skin disease.
One of the simplest ways we can help animals with skin problems is to keep the skin clean. We know how good it feels to be fresh and clean after a shower or bath; we also know that if we have an area of skin which is damaged the first thing we do is clean it and then keep it that way. Why not the same for our pets? Bathing our pets, especially those with skin problems, can help to reduce the bacterial and yeast population on the skin, remove allergens from the skin surface, help remove skin scales and dead hair and remove parasites such as fleas. Pets with skin problems may need to be bathed several times per week.
Bathing Tips
When bathing your pet you should choose a shampoo which is gentle on the skin and formulated specifically for pets. Many different shampoos are on the market. You may wish to use a herbal shampoo or one of the medicated shampoos may be better for your pet's particular problem. If your pet has a skin problem then ask your vet what type of shampoo they would recommend for that particular condition.
When washing your pet use luke warm water, it should not be hot. It is fine to use a hose on a gentle setting for dogs in hot weather, but only if they enjoy this. It can certainly help to cool them down and make them feel more comfortable. Whatever you do, you should try to keep bath time as fun and stress free as possible - both for you and your pet!
Remember not to let shampoo get into eyes or ears, you can use a damp cloth to wipe around these delicate areas if necessary. Stay away from really sore areas with the water but if medicated shampoo is required here blot gently with a moistened cloth or cotton wool. Remember to wash (and dry) feet and toes.
Wherever possible, medicated shampoo should be allowed to remain in contact with the skin for 10 minutes before rinsing in order to have the best effects. Rinsing should be thorough since residues of shampoo can be irritating to the skin later.
Your pet should be gently towel dried (if you do not wish your dog to shake the water from the coat before you have a chance to dry them, gently steady their nose until you have the majority of the water off - the shaking starts with the head and if the dog cannot get started it will not happen!) You can finish drying with a hairdryer on a "cool" setting, however stay away from hot-spots and other sore areas.
Wednesday, 28 October 2009
Detecting Dental Disease
As a vet the most common problem I see in pets is dental disease. The really sad thing is that many caring owners simply do not notice their pet's problem. Please take a moment once a month to lift your pet's upper lip and examine the mouth. Here are the signs you should be looking for.
Does Your Pet Show Signs Of Discomfort Around The Mouth?
If your pet backs away, turns their head, struggles or shows similar signs when you look at the mouth this may indicate that they are in pain. You should ask your vet to examine the mouth for you at your next appointment. Rubbing or scratching at the mouth, refusing food, salivation and licking may be other signs of oral discomfort which you may notice.
Does Your Pet's Breath Smell?
Bad breath is not just "doggy odour". It indicates that bacteria are present in the mouth and is an early and sensitive indicator of dental disease.
Can You See Calculus?
Calculus is the brown matter on the teeth which you can see clearly in the picture above. Teeth should be white and clean all the way to the gums.
Are Your Pet's Gums Red?
Healthy gums are pink in colour and taper gently to the tooth. If the gums are red and swollen this indicates gingivitis, an inflammation of the gums. In mild disease there may just be a thin red line along the gums where they meet the teeth but this should still be taken seriously.
What To Do Next
If you notice any of the signs listed above you should consult your vet. The calculus you see harbors bacteria. These bacteria release toxins which gradually destroy the periodontal ligament holding the tooth in place. Redness along the gums indicates that this process has begun. The problem is that you cannot see how much destruction has already taken place under the line of the gum. Eventually the gums recede allowing food to become trapped and the calculus moves deeper. Painful abscesses may develop. Eventually the periodontal ligament will be completely destroyed and the tooth will be lost.
Did You Know That Dental Disease Can Lead To Problems In Other Parts Of The Body?
Some of those bacteria in the mouth are being swallowed all the time. There is a constant "drip feed" of bacteria and their associated toxins into your pet's body. This will stress the immune system. The kidneys, brain and heart can all be affected by this constant source of infection arising from the mouth. Dental disease can therefore lead to many more serious problems and ultimately may cause an early death.
Remember Dental Disease Is Painful For The Pet And Can Lead To Serious Systemic Problems.
If your pet has dental issues please consult your vet. Many of the changes associated with the destruction of the periodontal ligament are permanent, but vets can still help reduce the chances of systemic disease by cleaning the mouth. We can also help to ensure that your pet's mouth is pain free. We must assume that dental problems are as painful for animals as they are for us- so many of them must just suffer in silence!
Take a look at this picture which shows the same dog as the one above after dental treatment. The teeth are clean and have been polished. This dog must feel so much better!
Friday, 23 October 2009
Stray Animals
Vets often have stray pets brought in to their surgeries by caring members of the public. Frequently these pets have been lost and so vets will make very effort to re-unite them with their owners. Although vets do everything they can to ensure that lost pets are returned to owners promptly there are a few simple measures that owners can take to make the task easier for vets and other animal carers.
Microchipping.
Have your pet microchipped and keep your contact details updated. Ask your vet to check that the microchip is still working at least annually. Microchips can occasionally fail and can also migrate from the original place of insertion between the shoulder blades. If a microchip is not working or is impossible to find, it will not help to identify your pet.
Collars and Tags
Collars and tags should be checked regularly. They are not as reliable as microchips since they can be lost or removed. However they should still be provided, since if your dog has no tag you could face a £5000 fine! Tags should state your name, address and telephone number. Tags should have clear writing ( shallow engraving may easily be missed especially in an excitable dog or if a bold "Scan Me" tag is lightly engraved on the back). You may wish to get your cat a collar with a tag although there is no legal requirement for this.
If your straying dog is picked up by the dog warden and is not easily identified you will often be charged for its kennel boarding and the work involved in looking after it. At the time of writing this charge in East Sussex is £75. Many vets will look after dogs free of charge for a short time but if medical care or out of hours work is required you should expect to pay for this. If a dog causes an accident or injures itself while straying the costs could easily amount to a great deal.
The best policy is to keep all dogs well under control at all times and ensure that they can easily be identified if an unavoidable problem occurs.
Microchipping.
Have your pet microchipped and keep your contact details updated. Ask your vet to check that the microchip is still working at least annually. Microchips can occasionally fail and can also migrate from the original place of insertion between the shoulder blades. If a microchip is not working or is impossible to find, it will not help to identify your pet.
Collars and Tags
Collars and tags should be checked regularly. They are not as reliable as microchips since they can be lost or removed. However they should still be provided, since if your dog has no tag you could face a £5000 fine! Tags should state your name, address and telephone number. Tags should have clear writing ( shallow engraving may easily be missed especially in an excitable dog or if a bold "Scan Me" tag is lightly engraved on the back). You may wish to get your cat a collar with a tag although there is no legal requirement for this.
If your straying dog is picked up by the dog warden and is not easily identified you will often be charged for its kennel boarding and the work involved in looking after it. At the time of writing this charge in East Sussex is £75. Many vets will look after dogs free of charge for a short time but if medical care or out of hours work is required you should expect to pay for this. If a dog causes an accident or injures itself while straying the costs could easily amount to a great deal.
The best policy is to keep all dogs well under control at all times and ensure that they can easily be identified if an unavoidable problem occurs.
Tuesday, 13 October 2009
Dog Training; The Heel Command
Use this training alongside the ‘Learn to Earn’ training as both will help teach your dog that you are in control.
Use short sessions of about 10 minutes twice a day. Use really rewarding treats such as sausage cut up into tiny pieces.
STEP 1
Indoors. Off lead.
Ask your dog to sit and reward him. Slowly start to walk off. He/she should follow and look to you for treat. If he/she stays at your side and looks up at you while you are walking, say “heel” and reward him/her.
If he/she jumps up, wanders off or is distracted, ignore this behaviour and walk away. Start again later.
Continue walking up and down indoors with your dog looking to you for direction for about 10 minutes at a time so that he doesn’t lose interest.
During the training, the only word you should use is ‘heel’ and only use it when he is at your side. Any other words will confuse him and he will take longer to learn the command.
Continue these sessions until every time you you do the training, he/she consistently walks at your side. At this stage you should start to reward intermittently when using the command and alternate treats with praise.
STEP 2
Indoors. On lead.
Repeat the training for step 1 but with his lead attached. You should only use heel command when lead is slack and your dog is at your side. Continue to use the word and treats/praise to build up the association between command and behaviour. Once he/she consistently walks to heel on the lead indoors, you can move to the garden where there are more distractions and continue with the training on the lead.
STEP 3
Once your dog walks to heel in the garden, move out into the street. Use an extending lead.
Allow them to walk to the end of the lead while you are walking slowly. When he/she reaches the end, stop.
He/she will look round to see why you have stopped. Don’t say anything, show them a treat and wait for your dog to come to your side.
Reward him/her and move off again. He/she will probably carry on walking to the end of the lead a few times. Be patient!
After a few attempts, your dog should walk at your side looking up for a reward. When he/she does, reward with a treat and say "heel".
Carry on with this training until your dog walks next to you all the time, reinforcing the word heel and the behaviour. Then you can again, replace some treats with praise and speed up your walking pace gradually.
Don’t pull your dog back at any time, just stop. You will probably have to repeat this a few times and you may not get very far!
Your dog will soon learn that it is more rewarding to be at your side than lunging ahead. Take it slowly and continue to say heel and reward with praise/treats when he/ is at your side.
Keep training separate from walks to begin with and when you have finished training go home.
STEP 4
Gradually speed up walking pace and reduce amount of treats. Carry on saying heel, praising your dog and giving treats intermittently.
If at any time he/she starts to lunge ahead, go back a stage and ensure they are consistent with that stage before moving on.
It is a good idea all through a dogs’ life to reward appropriate behaviour every now and again so you are reinforcing their training and the dog continues to look to you for guidance instead of doing what they want!
Happy walking!
Use short sessions of about 10 minutes twice a day. Use really rewarding treats such as sausage cut up into tiny pieces.
STEP 1
Indoors. Off lead.
Ask your dog to sit and reward him. Slowly start to walk off. He/she should follow and look to you for treat. If he/she stays at your side and looks up at you while you are walking, say “heel” and reward him/her.
If he/she jumps up, wanders off or is distracted, ignore this behaviour and walk away. Start again later.
Continue walking up and down indoors with your dog looking to you for direction for about 10 minutes at a time so that he doesn’t lose interest.
During the training, the only word you should use is ‘heel’ and only use it when he is at your side. Any other words will confuse him and he will take longer to learn the command.
Continue these sessions until every time you you do the training, he/she consistently walks at your side. At this stage you should start to reward intermittently when using the command and alternate treats with praise.
STEP 2
Indoors. On lead.
Repeat the training for step 1 but with his lead attached. You should only use heel command when lead is slack and your dog is at your side. Continue to use the word and treats/praise to build up the association between command and behaviour. Once he/she consistently walks to heel on the lead indoors, you can move to the garden where there are more distractions and continue with the training on the lead.
STEP 3
Once your dog walks to heel in the garden, move out into the street. Use an extending lead.
Allow them to walk to the end of the lead while you are walking slowly. When he/she reaches the end, stop.
He/she will look round to see why you have stopped. Don’t say anything, show them a treat and wait for your dog to come to your side.
Reward him/her and move off again. He/she will probably carry on walking to the end of the lead a few times. Be patient!
After a few attempts, your dog should walk at your side looking up for a reward. When he/she does, reward with a treat and say "heel".
Carry on with this training until your dog walks next to you all the time, reinforcing the word heel and the behaviour. Then you can again, replace some treats with praise and speed up your walking pace gradually.
Don’t pull your dog back at any time, just stop. You will probably have to repeat this a few times and you may not get very far!
Your dog will soon learn that it is more rewarding to be at your side than lunging ahead. Take it slowly and continue to say heel and reward with praise/treats when he/ is at your side.
Keep training separate from walks to begin with and when you have finished training go home.
STEP 4
Gradually speed up walking pace and reduce amount of treats. Carry on saying heel, praising your dog and giving treats intermittently.
If at any time he/she starts to lunge ahead, go back a stage and ensure they are consistent with that stage before moving on.
It is a good idea all through a dogs’ life to reward appropriate behaviour every now and again so you are reinforcing their training and the dog continues to look to you for guidance instead of doing what they want!
Happy walking!
The Learn to Earn Program
The idea of “learn to earn” is to change the relationship between you and your dog, so that he or she learns you are in control, but without using force or aggression. To do this you need to be in control of all things that are important to your dog, such as food, toys and your attention. Your attention is very important to your dog as dogs are social animals and they soon learn how to get your attention. The learn to earn programme gives your dog boundaries and so reduces its expectation of getting what he/she wants when he/she wants it.
Food
Ask your dog to sit/down/stay/shake paws or any command they know before you give them their food. The important thing is the dog does something for you before you do something for them.
Toys
Like the food, the dog’s toys belong to you, the pack leader. Keep his/her toys in a ‘toy box’ so you have control over their use. Just by being in control of a ‘vital’ resource like the toy box, will increase your status in the eyes of your dog. You can select toys to play with when you wish and put them away when you have finished. Also, make sure you end playtime and not your dog.
Your attention
This is the resource most people forget to control and is often the the resource the dog wants most. You should decide when you want to interact with your dog and not the other way round. There are no rules on how often you should do this, but it is important that you start and finish the interaction. e.g. when your dog is quiet, call them to you for a cuddle/game and give lots of praise. If you see the dog tiring of your attention, end the session so the dog is not the one to walk away.
If your dog comes to you for attention at other times, they must be ignored, including eye contact. Although it is nice that your dog comes to say hello, for dogs that are controlling their owners, it is important that such behaviour is ignored. To start with, the dog will probably try harder to get your attention-he/she has always had a response from you and when he doesn’t get it will try every “attention seeking” behaviour in the book. This is very hard to ignore, but must be done to get the message through. Once they have given up, wait 5 minutes then call them back and give lots of praise and cuddles.
Rules of the learn to earn program
1. Toys and food belong to you. Ensure you are in control of both of these resources.
2. Your dog must say “please” ie sit/down/paw to ask for any of these resources
3. Humans start and finish all interactions
4. Humans ignore all doggy attempts to start/prolong interactions
Also remember to reward appropriate behaviours and ignore inappropriate ones. Therefore behaviours you want will become more frequent and those you don’t will decrease in frequency.
Good luck
Food
Ask your dog to sit/down/stay/shake paws or any command they know before you give them their food. The important thing is the dog does something for you before you do something for them.
Toys
Like the food, the dog’s toys belong to you, the pack leader. Keep his/her toys in a ‘toy box’ so you have control over their use. Just by being in control of a ‘vital’ resource like the toy box, will increase your status in the eyes of your dog. You can select toys to play with when you wish and put them away when you have finished. Also, make sure you end playtime and not your dog.
Your attention
This is the resource most people forget to control and is often the the resource the dog wants most. You should decide when you want to interact with your dog and not the other way round. There are no rules on how often you should do this, but it is important that you start and finish the interaction. e.g. when your dog is quiet, call them to you for a cuddle/game and give lots of praise. If you see the dog tiring of your attention, end the session so the dog is not the one to walk away.
If your dog comes to you for attention at other times, they must be ignored, including eye contact. Although it is nice that your dog comes to say hello, for dogs that are controlling their owners, it is important that such behaviour is ignored. To start with, the dog will probably try harder to get your attention-he/she has always had a response from you and when he doesn’t get it will try every “attention seeking” behaviour in the book. This is very hard to ignore, but must be done to get the message through. Once they have given up, wait 5 minutes then call them back and give lots of praise and cuddles.
Rules of the learn to earn program
1. Toys and food belong to you. Ensure you are in control of both of these resources.
2. Your dog must say “please” ie sit/down/paw to ask for any of these resources
3. Humans start and finish all interactions
4. Humans ignore all doggy attempts to start/prolong interactions
Also remember to reward appropriate behaviours and ignore inappropriate ones. Therefore behaviours you want will become more frequent and those you don’t will decrease in frequency.
Good luck
Advice For Pet Owners during the Fireworks Season
Many people enjoy fireworks displays during the autumn and winter months. However these can be very distressing for our pets. Here are some helpful tips which may allow your pet to feel less stressed at this time of year. Although we tend to be concerned about dogs and cats do not forget to think about wildlife and do check your bonfire for hibernating hedgehogs before you light it!
1) It is important to keep all pets indoors during firework displays. Animals are more likely to dash off into roads or hide out in other people’s sheds at the sound of fireworks, causing worry and expense for owners.
The bonfire and firework season can be a stressful and frightening time for some pets. Behaviour of pets in reaction to fireworks can vary from a slight fear, perhaps your dog licking his lips or barking, to an intense fear. These phobias can escalate very quickly and it is important for owners to understand how to deal with their pets behaviour so they do not increase the fear without realising.
2) It is important that owners do not comfort their pets while they are stressed and anxious. However harsh this may seem, it actually increases your pets fear. If you comfort them, you are saying “Yes, there is something to be scared of and I’m scared too.”
Ensure children understand the importance of ignoring your dogs’ fearful behaviour too. Often owners follow the advice given and forget to include the children. Sometimes people will say “I’m doing everything you told me, but his behaviour is getting worse”. When asked how their children react towards the dog when he is showing signs of fear, it is common for them to say they cuddle up with the dog or stroke him while he is hiding under the bed etc. It is really important that all members of the family act in a consistent way as any comforting by any member of the family will reward the dog and encourage its fearful behaviour to become progressively worse.
As fear increases so does the pets anxiety level. They will pant, salivate, pace and burrow into dark corners. As fear progresses, dogs can claw and chew doors and furniture in an attempt to hide or escape. Apart from the obvious stress this causes the animal, it can be costly and upsetting for owners.
Therefore, it is important for your dog to feel relaxed, and confident that he can trust the signals you give out in order to overcome and prevent fears. Remember, be consistent!
3) It is important to provide a ‘den area’ for cats and dogs so they have somewhere dark and safe to hide if they need to. You will often find your dog tries to burrow into a dark cupboard or under the bed during fireworks or thunderstorms. They are trying to get away from the noise into an area they feel is safe. Pets also feel safer in the dark.
In the den area, you can use ‘Feliway’ for cats. (A spray or diffuser with a solution of synthetic feline facial pheromone. Cats produce this substance naturally when they feel relaxed and happy.) By using a synthetic preparation of the pheromone, you can help your cat to feel calm and relaxed in an otherwise stressful situation.
For dogs there is a similar product called DAP. (Dog Appeasing pheromone) Again, a synthetically produced version of the pheromone produced by lactating bitches, which helps to calm and reassure the puppies in their new environment. This can be used to help dogs of any age to feel more relaxed in stressful situations. Both of these products are available from Mayfield Vet.
It is a good idea to get your pet used to the den before the firework season starts. You can also use Skullcap and Valerian herbal tablets which also help reduce anxiety in pets. These tablets are not just ‘for one night only’ and are safe to carry on using. This can be helpful with the ever increasing number of fireworks going off up to and after November 5th. Skullcap and Valerian can be used in other stressful situations such as travelling, visits to the vet, moving house etc. and do not cause the pet to become drowsy. Herbal medicines are also available at Mayfield Vet.
The best thing is to let them go into their den and act as if nothing is any different and carry on as normal. If your pet realises you are not scared, this will help them overcome their fear as they will look to you and trust your behaviour.
If your dog already shows a fear response towards fireworks and other loud noises, the ‘Sounds Scary’ CD’s are a great help your dog overcome/reduce his fear. It takes time and patience on the owners behalf but is well worth taking the time so your dog can feel more relaxed and able to cope with scary situations.
It is a CD comprising firework sounds and all the noises that go with bonfire night. It has easy to follow instructions on how it can be used to desensitise your dog. It is very useful and really helps reduce the stress and anxiety that bonfire night can cause for pets and owners.
So, remember, remember on the 5th of November............
Do not let your pets outside
Ignore any fearful behaviour, do not even speak soothingly to your pet
Get the whole family involved and explain why you are acting the way you are
Provide a safe ‘den area’ in a quiet room, which is dark
Use Feliway/DAP or Skullcap and Valerian
1) It is important to keep all pets indoors during firework displays. Animals are more likely to dash off into roads or hide out in other people’s sheds at the sound of fireworks, causing worry and expense for owners.
The bonfire and firework season can be a stressful and frightening time for some pets. Behaviour of pets in reaction to fireworks can vary from a slight fear, perhaps your dog licking his lips or barking, to an intense fear. These phobias can escalate very quickly and it is important for owners to understand how to deal with their pets behaviour so they do not increase the fear without realising.
2) It is important that owners do not comfort their pets while they are stressed and anxious. However harsh this may seem, it actually increases your pets fear. If you comfort them, you are saying “Yes, there is something to be scared of and I’m scared too.”
Ensure children understand the importance of ignoring your dogs’ fearful behaviour too. Often owners follow the advice given and forget to include the children. Sometimes people will say “I’m doing everything you told me, but his behaviour is getting worse”. When asked how their children react towards the dog when he is showing signs of fear, it is common for them to say they cuddle up with the dog or stroke him while he is hiding under the bed etc. It is really important that all members of the family act in a consistent way as any comforting by any member of the family will reward the dog and encourage its fearful behaviour to become progressively worse.
As fear increases so does the pets anxiety level. They will pant, salivate, pace and burrow into dark corners. As fear progresses, dogs can claw and chew doors and furniture in an attempt to hide or escape. Apart from the obvious stress this causes the animal, it can be costly and upsetting for owners.
Therefore, it is important for your dog to feel relaxed, and confident that he can trust the signals you give out in order to overcome and prevent fears. Remember, be consistent!
3) It is important to provide a ‘den area’ for cats and dogs so they have somewhere dark and safe to hide if they need to. You will often find your dog tries to burrow into a dark cupboard or under the bed during fireworks or thunderstorms. They are trying to get away from the noise into an area they feel is safe. Pets also feel safer in the dark.
In the den area, you can use ‘Feliway’ for cats. (A spray or diffuser with a solution of synthetic feline facial pheromone. Cats produce this substance naturally when they feel relaxed and happy.) By using a synthetic preparation of the pheromone, you can help your cat to feel calm and relaxed in an otherwise stressful situation.
For dogs there is a similar product called DAP. (Dog Appeasing pheromone) Again, a synthetically produced version of the pheromone produced by lactating bitches, which helps to calm and reassure the puppies in their new environment. This can be used to help dogs of any age to feel more relaxed in stressful situations. Both of these products are available from Mayfield Vet.
It is a good idea to get your pet used to the den before the firework season starts. You can also use Skullcap and Valerian herbal tablets which also help reduce anxiety in pets. These tablets are not just ‘for one night only’ and are safe to carry on using. This can be helpful with the ever increasing number of fireworks going off up to and after November 5th. Skullcap and Valerian can be used in other stressful situations such as travelling, visits to the vet, moving house etc. and do not cause the pet to become drowsy. Herbal medicines are also available at Mayfield Vet.
The best thing is to let them go into their den and act as if nothing is any different and carry on as normal. If your pet realises you are not scared, this will help them overcome their fear as they will look to you and trust your behaviour.
If your dog already shows a fear response towards fireworks and other loud noises, the ‘Sounds Scary’ CD’s are a great help your dog overcome/reduce his fear. It takes time and patience on the owners behalf but is well worth taking the time so your dog can feel more relaxed and able to cope with scary situations.
It is a CD comprising firework sounds and all the noises that go with bonfire night. It has easy to follow instructions on how it can be used to desensitise your dog. It is very useful and really helps reduce the stress and anxiety that bonfire night can cause for pets and owners.
So, remember, remember on the 5th of November............
Do not let your pets outside
Ignore any fearful behaviour, do not even speak soothingly to your pet
Get the whole family involved and explain why you are acting the way you are
Provide a safe ‘den area’ in a quiet room, which is dark
Use Feliway/DAP or Skullcap and Valerian
House Training Your New Puppy
The early days with a new puppy are exciting, but difficulties due to house soiling and chewing can arise. Here are a few tips to help with house training your new companion.
1) Remember little accidents are to be expected during the house training process. Your puppy needs time to learn what is expected of him, and he is still young so may find it difficult to control his bladder and bowels.
Some puppies suffer from diarrhoea around the time of re-homing due to stress and changes in diet. Any puppy with diarrhoea should be seen by a vet as soon as possible. If diarrhoea is treated promptly your puppy will be more comfortable and will be able to control himself well enough to learn to "hold on" in the house. Do not expect a puppy with runny faeces to become house trained very easily!
NEVER punish your puppy if he has an accident-it may relieve your frustration but will just make the puppy more anxious and likely to have more accidents.
2) Put newspaper near to the puppies sleeping area, dogs do not generally urinate/defecate in their den area so your puppy should move out of his bed and onto the paper. An indoor kennel can be very helpful during this time since puppies are within a specific area and any mess can be contained.
When the puppy relieves himself on the paper, he should be praised and given a small reward. As the association between paper and toileting is made, the paper can be moved gradually closer to the door and then outside. It is advisable, as well as using newspaper, to put your puppy outside as soon as he wakes up and after eating since these are the times he is most likely to need the toilet.
At other times, you should be able to tell when he wants to go to the toilet as dogs will become restless, sniff the ground or circle round and then start to squat. When you see your puppy doing any of these things, calmly interrupt them and either lift them outside or encourage them to follow you outside.
As far as possible your puppy should be encouraged to go outside for urination and to pass motions. Newspaper should be available for your puppy to use if you cannot observe him and help him outdoors.
Do not make a big fuss, stay calm and remember to praise the dog if they go outside successfully and ignore the accident if they don't make it in time.
3) When puppies have accidents indoors, you should use a biological washing powder solution to clean up. Other cleaners, such as bleach and disinfectant do not break down the deposits and the smell left behind will encourage the dog to use the same spot for toileting again.
4) Remember that it can take time to house train your puppy but do speak to your vet if you are having problems.
1) Remember little accidents are to be expected during the house training process. Your puppy needs time to learn what is expected of him, and he is still young so may find it difficult to control his bladder and bowels.
Some puppies suffer from diarrhoea around the time of re-homing due to stress and changes in diet. Any puppy with diarrhoea should be seen by a vet as soon as possible. If diarrhoea is treated promptly your puppy will be more comfortable and will be able to control himself well enough to learn to "hold on" in the house. Do not expect a puppy with runny faeces to become house trained very easily!
NEVER punish your puppy if he has an accident-it may relieve your frustration but will just make the puppy more anxious and likely to have more accidents.
2) Put newspaper near to the puppies sleeping area, dogs do not generally urinate/defecate in their den area so your puppy should move out of his bed and onto the paper. An indoor kennel can be very helpful during this time since puppies are within a specific area and any mess can be contained.
When the puppy relieves himself on the paper, he should be praised and given a small reward. As the association between paper and toileting is made, the paper can be moved gradually closer to the door and then outside. It is advisable, as well as using newspaper, to put your puppy outside as soon as he wakes up and after eating since these are the times he is most likely to need the toilet.
At other times, you should be able to tell when he wants to go to the toilet as dogs will become restless, sniff the ground or circle round and then start to squat. When you see your puppy doing any of these things, calmly interrupt them and either lift them outside or encourage them to follow you outside.
As far as possible your puppy should be encouraged to go outside for urination and to pass motions. Newspaper should be available for your puppy to use if you cannot observe him and help him outdoors.
Do not make a big fuss, stay calm and remember to praise the dog if they go outside successfully and ignore the accident if they don't make it in time.
3) When puppies have accidents indoors, you should use a biological washing powder solution to clean up. Other cleaners, such as bleach and disinfectant do not break down the deposits and the smell left behind will encourage the dog to use the same spot for toileting again.
4) Remember that it can take time to house train your puppy but do speak to your vet if you are having problems.
Friday, 9 October 2009
Otitis Externa in Dogs
This week I have seen several challenging cases of chronic otitis externa. This disease is very common in dogs and can be demanding, but very rewarding to treat.
What is otitis externa?
Otitis externa is a term which describes inflammation of the external ear canal. Many factors can cause the problem to arise, but the underlying issues are often obscured by secondary infections as well as inflammation of the ear canal.
Signs
Affected dogs may shake their heads, rub their face and ears on the ground, scratch their ears, cry out or yelp when touched and may even become aggressive due to the pain. The ear becomes painful, red, inflammed and perhaps feels warmer to the touch. Sometimes people will notice an offensive odour or discharge from the ear.
Causes of otitis
Parasites, bacteria, yeast and fungal infections are often present in the ear canals of dogs with otitis. Less commonly, tumours or foreign bodies such as grass seeds are the initiating cause. If infections are present we should also look for underlying factors such as ear conformation, hypothyroidism and allergies.
How does the problem progress?
The ear canals can become very inflammed and thickened if the original problem is not diagnosed and treated. Once this happens the otitis becomes much more difficult to treat since the thickened, inflamed ear canal provides a warm and moist environment for bacteria. Hence a vicious circle is set up with the ear getting more and more inflamed and thickened which provides a better and better environment for bacteria.
How is otitis treated?
The treatment used will depend upon the underlying cause and any secondary infections present. Treatment may consist of ear drops, antibiotics, anti-inflammatory drugs, immunotherapy or surgery.
Alternatives
Herbs and homeopathy can be used in conjunction with conventional medicines. Dietary changes can be very beneficial.
What can you expect?
If mild otitis is treated promptly it can often resolve within a week or so. However if it becomes chronic with resulting changes to the ear canal it may take many weeks of treatment with antibiotics and anti-inflammatory drugs to get it under control. Sometimes it is necessary to clean the ears under anesthetic. Occasionally the only real solution is surgery to open up or even totally remove the ear canals.
Comment
I believe that we should be much more aware of the role of allergies in causing otitis. Often the underlying cause of chronic ear problems is not the infections (which develop secondarily) but an allergy. Of course bacterial infections will often be present and should be treated, but once this is done we should look for any underlying causes such as the conformation of the ears, hypothyroidism and allergies.
Where conformation of the ear is the underlying problem it is possible to help your dog by having your groomer clip hair around the ear and by using an ear cleaner which will help to keep the ear canal clean and dry. I do not recommend plucking the hair from the ear unless the hair is growing down into the ear canal rather than up out of it. Plucking is painful for the dog and can lead to inflammation and secondary infection of the hair follicles.
If allergies are the cause of otitis then it is possible to help with changes in diet, good parasite control, drugs and/or immunotherapy. Sometimes herbs and homeopathy could help too. Allergies can be controlled effectively with appropriate care and this will help to reduce ear problems in affected dogs.
Hypothyroidism can be diagnosed via blood tests. If a dog with ear problems has underlying hypothyroidism this can be treated.
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